Unexpectidly, the glue held the board in place immediately without screws. Eventually I put PL400 on the ends and top of the marine plywood to bond it to the chipboard too. You can see that I tried to apply PL400 to the joists as well. The plastic bag, put on earlier but shown more clearly here, is to keep sawdust out of the natural gas line. I've turned on the bathroom fans, the clothes dryer on 'air only', and the house air-to-air-exchanger. I don't have to leave the house, although it's that kind of smell that I wonder if I'll get high or brain damaged. The glue oozed out of the bottom, and out of every bolt hole and other hole I'd drilled in the wood
Ontario building code floor joist cantilever free#
Probably a lot, but Rod said to feel free to use a lot of glue. So I used 1237ml of PL400 to cover 2.3ft^2 of wood, or 530ml / ft^2. I ended up using 1.5 large tubes of PL400 sub floor construction adhesive (each tube 825ml). I started with a wave up and down, but decided to fill in the rest. Hand sanded because I didn't want to loose any more of the joist than I had to.īelow, from the back, you can see that although the notch is mostly about 3" deep, the cuts assend to more than 4" because of the way they were cut. It still took about an hour to get these two pieces (well four pieces after I cut them at the notch) off the joists.īut that left a rough and uneven surface, so I sanded it smooth. OK the natural gas has been shut off, the copper line has been disconnected, and the black line removed.Īfter cutting the two pieces of hardwood, and trying a couple different things, it looks like driving a chissel up underneeth works fairly well. It's a bit long and it wobbles, but it saves a little time changing bits. Good for drilling holes and then quickly driving screws. K) Have the HVAC guy reinstall the gas lines, and do a pressure test.īTW, this is an interesting drill attachment. J) Then repeat steps b through i for panels C and D. I) drill the two holes, 1.75" and 1.5" for the natural gas lines, in the positions predrilled in panel A H) bolt the panels A and B with the nuts on the panel B side G) drill the bolt holes at the existing holes in panel A, through the joist, through panel B Screws go at the bottom, bolts at the top.į) place and screw panel B (one row of screws) Here's two of the four pieces with the screws and bolts in place.Ī) Have the HVAC guy remove the gas linesĭ) place and screw panel A (three rows of screws). But just in case I twist the joists with too much force, I've screwed two 2x4's under the joists to take some of the load during the work. After the natural gas lines are removed, the plan is to cut them vertically at the notch, and then unscrew them and pry them off. I am a little bit nervous about how much force it's going to take me to get the old wood off that I've glued and screwed. There's a thin vaneer on it, but the grain of 3 out of 5 of the layers runs the 4' long way. Here's the parts list that Rod recommended. The black feeds the house with natural gas, and the copper runs to the gas fireplace upstairs over the notch. Nevertheless, they are not structurally strong enough.īoth the black and the copper are natural gas lines. Fortunately, even though a year has passed, the joists have not sagged at all. It took half an hour to cut each of those curved notches out of them with a sabre saw that wood is so hard. I had glued and screwed some incredibly hard wood on the bottom. No notches in the bottom anywhere on the joist.Ĭertainly a 4"+ notch out of a 2x8 nobody allows. With Ontario Building Code, the rule is notches only on the top near the ends, and holes smaller than 1.75" in 2x8's drilled through the middle. I had thought that a 1" deep notch in a joist was ok there, based on this link: IB-206-Notches and Holes.pdf The notch is only about 3" on the front sides, but it's more than 4" deep at the back of both of them. The nice HVAC Contractors who installed my furnace and re-routed my ductwork, unfortunately cut a more than 4" notch out of two of my 2x8 floor joists.